What type of fabric is twill?

What is twill fabric?

As manufacturers, finishers and distributors of many textiles, we are often asked “what is Twill?” Twill is a textile weave, simply enough. Or is it that simple? The weave’s filling threads in this textile pass over each other – over one and under two (or even more) warp threads (the vertical threads) to give an appearance of diagonal lines. Twill is how the fabric threads are woven together, so it is the weaving that really defines this widely popular textile fabric.

The horizontal weft thread will go under, over, under, over a vertical warp thread. Twill fabric is made by changing the pattern so the weft thread will go over more than one warp thread before going back under. It’s the step between the weft threads that creates this known diagonal pattern in the fabric. As the twill is woven in a series of diagonal but parallel steps (or ribs), it’s the thickness of the yarn that is what really determines how noticeably obvious the ribs are.

Twill is most notably characterized and regarded by its diagonal weave. Especially noticeable is in a tweed when several colors are used. It is far less evident when used with a single colored thread like cotton (use in cotton twill is sometimes referred to as chino).

In general, Twill tends to be a light weight fabric. Tweed, however, when woven with a coarse wool fiber, will produce a nice fabric for cool temperatures. This is why it is a favorite material utilized in coats in Scotland.

Other differing forms of twill that benefit from two colors of yarn are the herringbone, and hounds-tooth twill. Herringbone and hounds-tooth are often used in men’s and women’s suits. The two differing color threads produce these classic styles and looks of twill.

What type of twill fabric should I choose?

The type of twill fabric you choose to complete your project should all depend on what properties you are looking for in a material. Below, we’ve listed the types of twill fabrics, their characteristics and what they would work best for.

NATURAL TWILL

This type of twill is made from natural fabrics, such as cotton. Cotton twill fabric, including denim and chino, is a strong choice for clothes that are worn year round. These lightweight, breathable fabrics are ideal for breathing fresh air into your curtains and upholstery.  Its breathability also means that it won’t hold any odour - perfect for homes with pets or keen chefs!

Cotton twill is easy to clean, either by spot cleaning or machine washing. Beyond clothing, natural twill works well for curtains and furniture upholstery.

SYNTHETIC TWILL

This kind of twill includes polyester, which has a slightly silkier feel to it when compared to cotton. It is known for its durability and resistance to most chemicals. It holds its shape well, won’t shrink or stretch or crease easily. It traps moisture and is naturally hydrophobic, making it one of the most water-resistant twill fabrics - perfect for dressing windows that build up a lot of condensation.

Synthetic twill is also machine washable and tumble drier friendly! This means that it’s a popular choice for outdoor clothing and could even work for outdoor upholstery on your patio furniture.

SEMI-SYNTHETIC TWILL

Semi-synthetic twill is a variation of twill that includes two fabric types blended together. A popular choice is Viscose, which is soft to the touch, has a good weight to it and drapes really well. Viscose twill fabric works amazingly well for shirts, dresses and wide leg trousers. Semi-synthetic twills also work really well for curtains and curtain linings, or anything you want to hang well.

TWILLED WOOLLEN FABRIC

Twilled woollen fabric is known for its lustrous hand feel and its ability to keep you (and your home) warm during the colder months. It has all of the characteristics of natural wool, whilst also gaining the characteristics of a twill fabric. This makes it a great option for winter clothing and cosy homeware, as it’ll keep you warm, remain resistant to creases and will hide stains well. It makes a great option for cushions, throws and blankets!