Top fabric identification method

Recognition method of gram weight and count of knitted fabrics

Count refers to the number of 840 yards of cotton yarn that weighs one pound (454 grams). The larger the count, the thinner the yarn. For example, 48S is thinner than 23. The grammage refers to the weight of the fabric in grams per square meter. Generally speaking, the larger the count of the yarn of the same quality, the larger the weight. The conversion between the weight of the grey fabric and the weight of the finished product, if calculated by a formula, may be very different from the actual. There are two main reasons. The setting of the fabric can be calculated by the formula. As long as the conditions are closer, the result will be more accurate. The physical changes are processed from embryonic fabrics into finished fabrics. After multiple processes of dyeing and finishing, the fabric undergoes physical and chemical changes, and the variables increase. During the period, various types of machinery, processes, etc., are involved, resulting in different companies. Therefore, each company has its own standards for the conversion of the weight of the grey fabric and the weight of the finished product.

Conversion between the grammage of the grey fabric and the grammage of the finished product

How to create a conversion formula? It is recommended to collect the results of the company’s past fabrics to the finished fabrics, and then use the computer to screen the most results as the standard, and then evaluate its practicability according to the production situation of the company, and then formulate the conversion formula.

Example reference: (general fabrics, general weaving, dyeing and finishing processes) embryo weight = = order finished product weight x embryo weight coefficient

Fabric weight coefficient: plain weave 92% / double bead 88% / double garment 89% / single bead 93% / unit garment 89% / frame plain weave 100% / towel 106% / double-sided 88% / frame rib 91% / Ribbed 83%, framed lamp core 92% / lamp core 87%.

Grey fabric weight: refers to the weight per unit area of the fabric, generally expressed in grams per square meter (g/m2). The easiest calculation method in business.

For example: cotton fabric is generally in the range of 70～250 g/m2;

The weight of vanidin (combed) wool fabric is about 185 g/m2;

Thick tweed (carding) is about 280g/m2;

Thin silk fabrics are generally between 20-100 g/m2.

Grey cloth gram weight is also one of the moral indicators for assessing the physical properties of fabrics, which is more important for wool fabrics. In the "Ministry-Promulgated" standards for combed wool fabrics and wool-type chemical fiber fabrics, it is stipulated that the weight of the square meter should not exceed the allowable tolerance (the stipulation is 5%), and it is regarded as a first-class product; if it exceeds 5% and does not exceed 7%, it is Second-class goods.

1. Standard dry weight of warp and weft spinning (g/100) = metric number * 0.92166 / 10 or = 53.74 / inch count

2. The weight of the strands is calculated according to the combined weight.

3. Total warp elongation: sizing single yarn is calculated at 1.2% (including winding and warping at 0.5%, and sizing at 0.7%). The number below 102 of the Sheung Shui stock line is calculated at 0.3%, and the number above 102 is calculated at 0.7%.

4. The elongation of the indirect weft yarn is small and can be omitted.

5. The total flying rate of warp yarns: 1.2% for thick (count) fabric; 0.6% for medium (count) plain weave fabric, 0.9% for twill fabric; 0.8% for fine (count) fabric; thread fabric Calculated at 0.6%.

6. The total elongation of the warp yarn, the total fly rate of the warp yarn and the shrinkage rate of the warp and weft yarns are the basis for calculating the weight of one square meter of fabric, not the prescribed index. A simple method for checking prices and estimating yarn in the workshop: warp yarn for 100 meters = warp density / count * width * 0.0065 weft yarn for 100 meters = weft density / count * width * 0.0065 More reasonable: (for technicians ) 100-meter warp yarn = (warp number * total warp number / (1- warp shrinkage rate))/10000*1.01 100-meter weft yarn = weft number * weft density * 3.937* (reed width + reed wire)/ 100000*1.003 Recycled silk——Take 12cm for stretch yarn and 8cm for normal yarn. This formula is widely used in the convenient calculation of salespersons (not invented by musical notes). The principle is correct, the calculation is simple, and the error is inevitable (what you call 101g/m2, just Is it absolutely correct? It's definitely not, it's just more precise). Grey cloth square meter weight=(warp density+weft density)*1.1*59/(2.54*yarn count)=warp density*1.1*59/(2.54*yarn count)+weft density*1.1*59/(2.54*yarn branch).

Warp and Weft:

a. Warp (weft) density/2.54--------Convert the British system density to the metric system density

b. The coefficient 1.1------- is a comprehensive consideration of warp (weft) shrinkage and warp (weft) yarn loss of about 10%. Although there are deviations, it is not a big problem as a convenient and fast calculation.

c.59/Yarn count ------- is to convert the British yarn count into a metric special number, which is a combination of cotton 583.1, polyester 590.5 and other conversion coefficients, taking the coefficient of 590, although there is an error, it is not a big problem.

d. I will not give examples of the specific unit conversion involved. I believe you should have some basic skills.

In summary: warp direction a * b * c + weft direction a * b * c = precision + weft density) * 1.1 * 59 / (2.54 * yarn) = grey cloth square meter gram weight fabric cost accounting data yarn consumption per meter = (Warp density + weft density) X0.065X finished width X1.01

Example: 45s T/C*45sT/C 110*70 58/59" polyester cotton rice pass (yarn price: 26000 yuan/ton) Yarn consumption per 100 meters = (110+70)/45X0.065X59X1.01=15.5 The yarn consumption per meter for KG/100 meters is 155G/M. If the yarn dyeing fee is 8000 yuan/ton, the price per meter is: 15.5X (2.6+0.8) = 5.27 yuan/meter, plus 3 yuan/meter , The subsequent processing is 1.00 yuan/m, [turn] commonly used textile calculation formulas commonly used textile calculation formulas are divided into two types: fixed length calculation formula and fixed weight calculation formula.

1. Calculation formula of fixed-length system:

(1) Denier (D) = g/L*9000, where g is the weight of the silk thread (g), and L is the length of the silk thread (m)

(2) Tex (number) [tex(H)]: tex=g/L*1000 where g is the weight of the yarn (or silk) (g), and L is the length of the yarn (or silk) (m )

(3) Dtex (dtex): dtex=g/L*10000 where g is the weight of the silk thread (grams), and L is the length of the silk thread (meters).

(1) Metric count (N): N=L/G where G is the weight (g) of the yarn (or silk), and L is the length of the yarn (or silk) (m) (2), the imperial count ( S): S=L/(G*840) Where G is the weight of the silk thread (lbs), and L is the length of the silk thread (yards)

2. Select the conversion formula:

(1) Conversion formula of metric count (N) and denier (D) = 9000/N

(2) The conversion formula of English count (S) and denier (D) = 5315/S

(3) Conversion formula of tex (dtex) and tex (tex): 1tex=10dtex

(4) Conversion formula of tex (tex) and denier (D): tex=D/9

(5) The conversion formula of tex (tex) and inch count (S): tex=K/SK value: pure cotton yarn K=583.1 purified fiber K=590.5 polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 cotton viscose yarn (75:25 )K=584.8 Dimensional cotton yarn (50:50) K=587.0

(6) Conversion formula of tex (tex) and metric number (N): tex=1000/N

(7) Conversion formula of dtex (dtex) and denier (D): dtex=10D/9

(8) The conversion formula of dtex (dtex) and inch count (S): dtex=10K/SK value: pure cotton yarn K=583.1 purified fiber K=590.5 polyester cotton yarn K=587.6 cotton viscose yarn (75: 25) K=584.8 Dimensional cotton yarn (50:50) K=587.0 9), the conversion formula of dtex and metric count (N): dtex=10000/N

(10) The conversion formula of metric centimeter (cm) and imperial inch (inch): 1inch=2.54cm

(11) The conversion formula of metric meter (M) and English yard (yd): 1 yard = 0.9144 meters

(12) The conversion formula of satin square meter weight (g/m2) and millimetre (m/m): 1m/m=4.3056g/m2

(13) The conversion formula between the actual weight of silk and pound weight: pound weight (lb) = weight per meter of silk (g/m) * 0.9144 (m/yd) * 50 (yd) / 453.6 (g/yd)