The main varieties and characteristics of cotton fabric

Cotton fabric, also known as cotton, is a woven fabric made from cotton yarn. Cotton fabric has become one of the most commonly used fabrics because of its excellent wearability. It is widely used in clothing fabric, decorative fabric and industrial fabric. With the further development of textile printing and dyeing processing, cotton fabric varieties are increasingly rich, appearance, performance and grade are also constantly improved. Due to the development of chemical fiber, cotton-type chemical fiber appears. Its length (generally about 38mm), thread density (generally about 1.5 days) and other physical characteristics meet the requirements of cotton spinning technology, and it is spun purely or blended with cotton fiber on cotton spinning equipment. The fabric of this kind of fiber and cotton fabric are collectively called cotton-type fabric.

Classification of cotton fabrics

1. According to the fabric

(1) Plain fabric

(2) twill fabric

(3) satin fabric

2. According to the printing and dyeing finishing processing

(1) Bleached fabric

(2) dyed cotton fabric

(3) Printing and dyeing cotton fabric

3. common varieties of cotton fabric:

Plainfabric, poplin, linen, twill, khaki, serge, gabardine, sateen, corduroy, flannelette, fine, velvety, yarn, Oxford, wash, Merle, worsted, seersucker, crepe, Crodin, denim.

(1)Plain fabric

Generally, the warp and weft yarns used are the same or not very different, the warp and weft density is very close, and there is no obvious difference between the front and the back. Branch yarn thickness can be divided into flatfabric, thick flatfabric and fine flat fabric.

Coarse plain fabric: made of cotton with warp and weft of 32tex and above (18s) and below. The texture is coarse, the fabric surface has more cotton knot impurities, but feel thick, firm and wear-resistant, often used in packaging materials, interlining and labor protection clothing materials.

Medium plain fabric: Warp and weft in 31-21tex(19s ~ 28s), 3 ~ 3.5 grade cotton spinning.

Fine plain fabric: warp and weft yarn in 19-10tex(29s ~ 59s), thin fabric body, uniform fabric surface, soft feel, gram weight is generally 80 ~ 120g/m2. Usually processed for bleaching, color, floral fabric, can be used for underwear, smock, summer coat, bedding, printed handkerchief and medical rubber  fabric, etc.

Fabric style: fine flat  fabric with thin body; Medium flat  fabric body thickness is medium, more firm; Thick flat  fabric body thick, firm and thick.

Application: shirts and other clothing; Auxiliary materials single clothes, quilt

(2) Fine spinning

It is a plain weave woven with extra fine combed cotton yarn of 60s~100s (9.7~5.8tex) or polyester/cotton blended yarn, with fine and thin texture, similar to the spun fabric in silk. There are four types of spun fabrics: bleached, dyed, printed and yarn-dyed. The fabric is smooth in detail, light and silky, but stronger than silk. The spun fabric has soft feel and compact structure. After mercerizing, the luster is particularly soft, the feel is smooth, the moisture absorption makes it comfortable to wear. Thin reeds (flower reeds) can be used for weaving, and yarns of different thicknesses can be used to obtain a fancy appearance.

(3)poplin

Poplin is an extra fine, high density plain or jacquard fabric, with silk style. Its biggest characteristic is that the fabric density is high, and the density is twice the weft density, the front side has a more obvious uniform granular shape, clear grain, and the area of the warp is much larger than the weft. The weft twist is larger than the warp twist, so the fabric is smooth, fine and shiny. As a result, poplin fabrics have a better texture than plain fabrics of the same yarn count. Because the poplin warp density is greater than the weft density, so the warp strength of the fabric is higher than the weft strength, prone to longitudinal cracks.

Poplin fabric varieties are more, there are yarn poplin, half line poplin and full line poplin; According to the different spinning technology can be divided into regular comb, half comb and all comb poplin; Can also be divided into ordinary, stripe, jacquard poplin; According to the fabric dyeing and finishing process can be divided into bleaching, printing and yarn-dyed poplin.

Fabric style: The fabric body is compact, the feel is delicate and soft, the luster is rich, the texture is crisp, the wearing is comfortable and breathable, the  fabric surface is uniform, the weave is clear, and the fabric has a sense of silk.

Application: Shirt, underwear, pajamas, summer wear and children's wear fabric, can be used for handkerchiefs, sheets, bedding, etc.

(4)Flax yarn

Flax yarns are made of varying plain weave. Some warp yarns are double yarns and some are single yarns, spaced apart from each other, with low density and high twist.

Type: ordinary hemp yarn, fancy hemp yarn

Fabric style: The appearance and feel of the fabric are similar to that of hemp fabric, with longitudinal thin strips of different widths on the surface, resulting in uneven convex stripes on the surface and obvious yarn holes. Therefore, the fabric is cool, light and breathable, and has no close-fitting feeling.

Application: Summer men's and women's shirts, children's wear, pajamas, skirts

(5)voile

It is a thin plain fabric made of combed yarn with fine thread density and strong twist. It has the style of tough silk in silk fabrics. The yarn density is usually above 60s, and the twist coefficient is large. The twist coefficient of single yarn number is 333~352, and the floating yarn twist coefficient is 1.4~2 times of that of single yarn. The fabric tightness is small, the warp tightness is about 40% and the weft tightness is about 33%. The meridional tightness of the thread is about 23% and the zonal tightness of the Bali yarn is about 21%.

Fabric style: sparse density, thin texture, clear  fabric holes, feel cool, elastic, good sweat absorption and air permeability, comfortable to wear.

Application: Used in summer shirt skirt, dress, children's wear fabric, pajamas, headscarf, veil, lampshade, curtain, etc.

(6)denim

Denim, also known as workcloth or solid, is a thicker yarn-dyed product. Warp is dyed blue or black with indigo or vulcanized dye, and weft is dyed with bleached yarn or primary color yarn, mostly woven with plain weave, twill, broken twill, composite twill, satin or small jacquard. Denim yarn is thick, high density, thick feel, clear weave, firm and wear-resistant. After pre-shrinking, firing, desizing, washing, sand washing and other finishing, the fabric is soft and crisp, shrinkage is reduced, and different style characteristics are produced.